At low density, assemblies of self propelled particles are prone to a number of novel collective behaviors, which are specific to these intrinsically out-of-equilibrium systems.The high density phases of active matter have been much less studied. Either the density screens the activity and the liquid freezes according to equilibrium scenarii or activity dominates and new phases are prone to develop is an open question of major importance. Here we experimentally tackle this issue in the specific case of vibrated polar hard disks which are a model of self-propelled particle. We show that increasing density the quasi-continuous crystalization of equilibrium disks is replaced by a specifically active scenario. Clusters of dense hexagonally-ordered packed discs spontaneously form, melt, split and merge leading to a highly intermittent and heterogeneous dynamics. No coarsening is observed. Increasing further the density, the clusters span a finite fraction of the system size and the structure becomes similar to that of a polycrystal. However the system is never frozen: the clusters permanently melt from place to place forming droplets of active liquid which rapidly propagate across the system. This state of affair remains up to the highest possible packing fraction questioning the stability of the crystal for active discs.